GROWING HYDRANGEA AND CARING FOR IT IN YOUR GARDEN

If you decide to decorate your garden with hydrangeas, please note that there are many types of this beautiful shrub.

And almost each of them requires individual care.

Most types of hydrangeas love heat. In the middle lane only a few plant species characterized by frost resistance are cultivated. These include large-leaved hydrangea (garden) and paniculate.

Hydrangea garden

Sadovaya called hydrangea macrophylla. This is the most common form, although many flower growers do not dare to grow it in the gardens of the middle lane. The reasons for this relationship to garden hydrangeas are:

low frost resistance;
the need to maintain the upper buds of last year's shoots.

In addition, autumn and spring frosts sometimes damage flower buds, and then hydrangeas do not bloom.

Although it should be noted that most of the hydrangeas under shelter tolerate cold winters.

In recent years, frost-resistant varieties have emerged that can withstand temperatures up to -35 degrees.

Large hydrangea loves acidic soil. Look at what plants grow on your site with pleasure, and you will determine the degree of acidity of the fertile layer: pine, spruce, horsetail, strawberries, caustic buttercup, sorrel, and oxalon will indicate the acidic soil.

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Hydrangea paniculata

This plant with luxurious pyramidal buds is the most unpretentious plant among its sisters.

It feels great in open sunny places, but agrees to grow with a little shading, if only there was no wind.

It is also not particularly demanding on soils: it grows on sandy, well-moistened soils and on clayey (but on condition that quality drainage is organized).

Not very demanding hydrangea paniculata and soil acidity. Only excessively alkaline oppress it.

Planting hydrangeas

If you got a sapling in late autumn, then he will have to spend the winter at home:

small - on the window with good natural light;
large - in a non-freezing cellar.

The most suitable time for planting hydrangeas - early spring. Planting pit is prepared for 2-3 weeks before planting.

Before you start planting, you must do the following steps:

Shorten the roots slightly.
Trim annual shoots, while leaving 3-4 pairs of buds.
If possible, add one part of peat mixed with rotted coniferous litter and one part of rotted compost to the landing pit. The first mixture will give the soil airiness and acidify it, and thanks to the compost the plant will receive nutrients.
Abundantly water the planted plant.
Mulch the soil around the plant with compost. It is desirable to add to it coniferous litter, pieces of pine bark, rotted cones.

Experienced growers claim that with good organization of irrigation hydrangeas grow anywhere. But they bloom longer in the penumbra: these wonderful flowers do not like any bright sun or thick shadow. In addition, the location of the plants must be protected from the wind: shoots from hydrangeas are fragile, and inflorescences - heavy.

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Preparing plants for winter

There are many agrotechnical techniques that help improve the frost resistance of hydrangeas:

the soil under the plant should be loose: it contributes to its more rapid thawing in the spring;
before wintering it is necessary to siphon hydrangea well with water;
In the fall it is necessary to make phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Hydrangea paniculata does not require winter shelter. A large leaf must be securely sheltered for the winter. How it's done?

The center of the bush is filled with sawdust, peat.
The branches can be pinned to the ground, and the bush can be completely covered with earth.
Cover the prepared plant from above with a box or a box. You can cover the hydrangea with fir branches, lukrasilom.
But never cover it with plastic wrap!

But most importantly - the right choice of varieties for the area.

Proper care of hydrangeas

Monthly watering of a plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate brings great benefit to the plant: such a procedure acts on hydrangea firming.

Watering the slurry will also benefit your darling.

In spring and early summer, acidic fertilizers (potassium sulphate, ammonium sulphate) should be applied under the bush. But at the end of summer and autumn hydrangeas will require phosphate-potassium fertilizers (superphosphate). Under one adult bush should be 2-3 buckets of nutrient solution.

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Trimming Hydrangeas

Many growers believe that large-leaved (garden) hydrangea does not need to be pruned at all. They remove only old, weak and damaged branches. Moreover, they do it at any time. But for the formation of the crown of this species it is necessary to do the following:

in the first year after planting in the fall, shorten the main growths, leaving one or two strong buds;
thoroughly humus humus;
in October-November, trim only the weakest or breaking symmetry, because during the growing season several powerful growths and a lot of side branches are formed on the main shoots;
in the second year, after flowering, prune all generative shoots;
in the third year (as well as all subsequent ones) immediately after the hydrangea has faded, remove all the faded shoots to the healthy growths located below and cut out all the weak branches. If the bush is heavily thickened, it is necessary to cut a quarter of all the old shoots to the ground.

Hydrangea paniculata can be cut in the fall, winter and spring. But do not do it every year. During pruning remove small, weak branches, as well as intersecting or rubbing. Strong branches shorten to 25 cm.

It is possible to form a plant in the form of a tree on a low trunk. To do this, the two-year bush must leave the most powerful shoot, completely cutting out the remaining branches.

The next year, shorten this shoot to the strongest bud.

From the shoots that have grown over the year, leave only 2-3. The following year, the shoots that developed on them, cut into 2-3 peepholes. The formation of a tree will take you from eight to ten years.