How to grow hyacinths in the open field?

Hyacinth is a beautiful, graceful flower, which blooms in early spring, when the first rays of the sun warm the earth after hibernation.

Elegant and delicate, hyacinths amaze with an abundance and variety of color shades, ranging from pale (yellow, pink, white) to dark purple and even black plants.

This is a universal flower that can live at home, and also feels great on the open garden plots.

People call a hyacinth a flower of rain. The plant belongs to the lily family and is 30 species. Their homeland is the Mediterranean and South Asia.

A plant appeared in Europe at the beginning of the 6th century and immediately won recognition of the elite strata of society due to its wonderful aroma and rich blue color.

In the next century, hyacinths were already grown on a large scale, and from the XVIII century there were already more than 2 thousand varieties (simple, fragrant, terry, etc.).

Today, the main suppliers of plant bulbs are the Netherlands and the UK.

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Planting hyacinths

Bulbs are commonly used for planting hyacinths, although seed reproduction is also possible.

It is best to select medium-sized bulbs (large recommended for forcing), elastic and dense, not affected by diseases or pests.

Planting should begin in October: if planted earlier, under the condition of warm weather, the bulbs will begin to germinate and die at the first frost.

But it’s also pointless to delay the planting too: they will take root badly and bloom later.

The plot should be open and sunny. You should not plant the plant close to the trees and large shrubs: their roots will interfere with hyacinth, taking a large part of the nutrients from the soil. The place can be even or slightly sloping: so the moisture will drain and not stagnate.

The soil must be prepared in advance: add mineral fertilizers and humus to it, the notes are by no means fresh manure.

If the soil in your garden is too wet, prone to stagnant water, and acidic, then you should add sand, lime, and drain the area. Wood ash can be a useful supplement. The soil should be loose, light, neutral.

Before planting hyacinth bulbs, it is recommended to protect against diseases and pests by holding them for 10-15 minutes in the following solution:

  • 0.2% suspension topsina-m;
  • 0.1% solution of decis;
  • 0.1% aktar (1 tablet per 10 liters of water).

For the disinfection of bulbs, you can use another, more well-known tool: a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

After that, the bulbs immediately land in shallow holes (10-20 cm) at a distance of 10-15 cm.

Leave about 20 cm between rows. Pour the bottom of the hole with clean river sand (5 cm) and press a bulb into it.

Then lightly sprinkle with sand on top, and then cover with soil. So the bulb will be more reliably protected from rotting and various infections.

Before the onset of cold weather and frost landing, it is better to cover with sawdust, dry peat, humus or lapnik. Do not forget to carefully open them with the first rays of the spring sun, as the hyacinth sprouts appear quite early.

The first is better to plant later varieties, although the difference between the flowering of early, middle and late varieties is only a week.

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Growing hyacinths

Hyacinths require careful care: only then they will delight you with lush flowering. The soil around the planting should be clean, loosened; during the dry period, it should be moistened to a depth of 15-20 cm.

During the vegetative period it is recommended to feed the soil three times. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to screen the plants (2-3 times), cutting off diseased peduncles with a sharp knife or cutting off flowers at the end of flowering.

Fertilizers are applied in dry or dissolved form, pre-moisten the soil well. The first top dressing is made at the beginning of flower growth (a solution of 20-25 g of saltpeter and 15-20 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. M plot).

The second - during the formation of buds (30-35 g of superphosphate plus 15-20 g of potassium sulphate). The third dressing is carried out at the very end of flowering (30-35 g of superphosphate plus the same amount of potassium sulphate).

You can also use micronutrient fertilizers, making the same amount as for tulips. At the end of the procedure, the soil should be plowed.

Care after flowering and storage of bulbs

Bulbs of European manufacturers better not to leave for wintering in the ground. In our conditions, they can successfully overwinter, but they will bloom worse every year, and then they will generally die.

Experts recommend digging them immediately when the leaves turn yellow. The end of June is considered the best time to start preparing hyacinths for the winter.

Digging will also allow inspection of each bulb, calibration and subsequent processing in order to prevent protection against various pests and diseases.

Bulb storage is an important condition for the successful cultivation of hyacinths. It is at this time that a new life is born in the bulb: the process of formation of inflorescences begins.

It is important to observe all stages of storage of future flowers:

  • dug onions need to be ventilated and dried in a darkened room at a temperature of 20ºC (5-7 days);
  • then they should be cleared from the ground, calibrated and separated children;
  • The selected bulbs are folded in a box in two layers. If the bulbs are small, you can store in a paper signed package.
Important! It is better not to separate very small shoots from the bulbs!

Further storage of the bulbs is divided into 2 stages:

  • about 2 months you need to store them in a room at an elevated temperature (25-26º);
  • last month the temperature drops to 17º.

It is necessary to maintain the humidity in the room and air it regularly. Low humidity can cause the bulbs to dry out.

The entire storage period takes approximately 95 days. Another important nuance: before planting, you need to hold the bulbs in a cool room so that they get used to the low temperature.

As a rule, root processes are formed around the bulb, therefore, it is necessary to plant very carefully, without damaging them. If there are no processes, it is necessary to cause their formation by wiping the base of the bulb with a clean and dry cloth.

Breeding

Hyacinth multiplies mainly by children, i.e. small onions.

It is also possible with seeds, but this method is almost not practiced in gardening. Each adult bulbs annually forms up to 4 children.

They are carefully separated from the mother in the summer and planted in the ground in late August. After 2-3 years, the bulbs mature and begin to bloom.

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Diseases and pests

Improper care leads to the fact that the plant begins to hurt. For example, too abundant watering, insufficient lighting and drafts cause early yellowing of the leaves.

When watering, do not pour water on the unopened bud: it will get sick and will not open. Reducing shelf life can slow down plant growth.

Sometimes gardeners are faced with the fact that the plant does not bloom. This may be due to mistakes made during the care. For example:

  • planted very small bulbs;
  • the bulbs were kept at a very high temperature;
  • brought to the bright sun too early.

Hyacinth is most often affected by yellow bacterial rot, which turns the bulbs into mucus and has a sharp, unpleasant odor.

Such bulbs should be destroyed, and the hole is etched with 5% formalin solution or bleach.

After that, the plant can be planted in this place only after a few years.

To hyacinths pleased you with lush and stormy blooms observe all stages of planting, storage and growing plants.

In this case, your flower bed will turn into a colorful, fragrant carpet that will leave an unforgettable impression for a whole year.

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